It’s also sometimes called an “invisible seam” owing to the fact you can’t actually see where the stitches have been made. A French seam is a seam that encloses the seam allowance on the inside of a sewn item so that no raw edge is visible and eliminates the need for another form of seam finish.

This prompted the growth of many small sewing shops throughout the island specializing on piece work; before sleeves were sewn in the garment or the waist of trouser put in they were sent to be sewn binding the seam allowance with bias tape, hence its name.

What is a Hong Kong finish? A Hong Kong finish is a method of binding seams with bias tape. Unlike traditional bound seams, the binding on the wrong side of the seam allowance is left unturned, reducing bulk significantly.

Flat felled seams

Trivia: apparently in English-speaking countries this is called a French seam, and in France it’s called an English seam (Claire B. Shaeffer, “Couture Sewing Techniques”).

A french seam is strong but it can be a bit stiff and bulky. Occasionally the first sewn edge can unravel as it is trimmed so short. French seams are easiest to do on straight seams. They can be done on curved edges but it’s more difficult to get a clean, professional-looking result.

A French seam is often used when the fabric is too delicate to overcast the seam allowance to prevent raveling. The construction of a French seam provides a clean, finished, professional look to the inside of the garment, such as concealing pinked edges.

A French seam encloses the seam allowance on the inside of a sewn item, so no raw edge is visible. It’s used most commonly on sheer fabric, so the seam blends with the fabric. But it can be used on any fabric where you want to enclose the seam allowance and keep a soft edge.

: a stitch (as in a pamphlet) made by fastening two loops of a single thread in the center of the fold.

: a seam in which the edges overlap especially : a seam in leather or cloth made by extending a cut or folded edge over a cut edge to the width of the seam allowance and stitching in place.

7 Different Types of Seams

• Plain seam. A plain seam is the simplest type of seam and can be used on almost any item.
• Double-stitched seam.
• French seam.
• Bound seam.
• Flat-felled seam.
• Welt seam.
• Lapped seam.

A run and fell seam is a seam made on the right side of the garment, comprising a normal seam, to which one side is trimmed and the other side turned over the trimmed side and pressed under and the whole seam then topstitched on the right side. Run and fell seams are typically used in garments made of denim.

This method of finishing a seam allowance by hand will prevent them from fraying, and lightly reinforce the seam. Cut down the seam allowance to 1/8″. With each stitch, you will catch 1 thread from the body of the fabric 1/8″ from the seam, then pass the needle through the seam allowance just above the seam.

Learn-to-sew: Five Principles for Neat Sewing

1. Accuracy. Accuracy in sewing is essential from the moment you take scissors to your paper pattern.
2. Keep Excess Fabric Clear. Excess fabric caught in seam.
3. Manage Thread Tails. Stitching start and finished secured with backstitching.
4. Finish Edges and Seams.
5. Press.

So while the short answer to the question of “is sewing cheaper than buying clothes” is no, the long answer is yes. If you do embrace slow fashion by making clothing, then you will make fewer clothes but you will wear them longer. They will last longer.

Since the needle is constantly moving, you will not sew straight if you watch it as you stitch. The seam guide does not move so it’s much better to focus there as your fabric moves along, resulting in much straighter seams.