An auxin, is a plant growth hormone that helps regulate shoot growth. But when sunlight varies, auxin is broken down on the sunnier side of the stem. The higher concentration of auxin on the shady side causes the plant cells on that side to grow more so it bends toward the light.

Roots respond to gravity and shoots grow towards sunlight. Roots – Roots grow down because the root respond to gravity by releasing the chemicals that prevent growth on the lower side,thus turning the root downwards.

The roots grown downward in the direction of gravity, which is positive gravitropism, and the shoot grows upward away from gravity, which is negative gravitropism. The reason plants know which way to grow in response to gravity is due to amyloplasts in the plants.

Phototropism is how plant shoots grow towards the light. In a shoot, the shaded side contains more auxin. This means that the shaded side grows longer, causing the shoot to bend towards the light. Many famous scientists including Charles Darwin (1809-1882) completed experiments like this on phototropism.

Trees strive towards light. In a forest, wind and elemental factors are not really an issue, so growth tends to be straight upwards, towards a canopy where light exposure is available. In a forest, the surrounding trees provide a protective buffer from strong winds, so they can grow tall and large.

7 Fast Growing Trees in India

• Sagwan Tree. Goes by the name Teak, it additionally holds therapeutic worth.
• Nimboo. Indian Elm or Dhauranjo is a huge deciduous tree, growing up to 18 m tall.
• Ber.
• Babool.
• Neem.
• Amrood/Jamphal.
• Mahua.

They don’t always grow straight up. A lot of that depends on the growth form of the species. As for the ones that do, growing in a line with gravity provides a structural benefit. The mass of the tree is centered over its trunk.

Trees have sensors that detect light and gravity. From the moment a tree begins its life, it knows which end is up. Trees will generally attempt to grow toward the light and away from gravitational pull. But, as a tree gets older, its branches tend to grow more outwards than upwards.

Trees grow taller when new cells are produced at the tips of twigs, causing the twigs to grow longer. Tree trunks and branches grow thicker as new cells are added beneath the bark. These cells make up vessels, called xylem and phloem, that carry water and food throughout the tree.

In places where strong winds exist, trees can be seen to lean away from the breeze. With a constant buffet of wind from one direction, trees get permanently affected, resulting in branches leaning to one side. It’s called phototropism and it is when a tree grows towards the light.

Full branches: a healthy tree has an absence of dead or broken branches. Try this test: snap one twig off a branch to see if it’s dormant or dead. Living twigs bend and dead twigs break. Strong bark: there should be an absence of loose or peeling bark on a tree’s leader and branches.

Branch cuttings become a complete, new plant identical to the parent plant. Branches less than one year old work the best for growing trees. The tree will mature much quicker than one grown from a seed and usually develops roots in a few months.

How does topping damage trees? 1) Topping reduces food-making capacity. Trees require a large leaf surface area to provide food for maintenance and growth. Topping cuts off a major portion of the tree’s foodmaking potential and depletes the tree’s stored reserves.

Over pruning reduces the foliage that’s available for making food for the rest of the plant and can allow pests and diseases access to the tree, if cuts are made incorrectly. So, although pruning may not kill your plant directly, over pruned trees and shrubs can die as a long term result of the associated stress.

There is never a bad time to remove dead, damaged or diseased branches. But most trees benefit from pruning in mid to late winter. Pruning during dormancy encourages new growth as soon as the weather begins to warm. The lack of leaves after autumn allows you to easily identify branches and limbs requiring removal.

Specifically, you:

1. Prune away broken or girdling roots back to the healthy wood. Roots that wrap around the base of the tree are girdling roots.
2. Remove broken or damaged branches. These branches may be diseased; removal keeps the infection from spreading to the good wood.
3. Prune to compensate for the transplanting.

A tree pruning sealer is a specially designed waterproof product that is applied, or “painted,” onto the exposed cut on a limb or branch after pruning. For many, many years — and still to this day in some cases — people were told by an arborist that tree wound had to be covered with a sealant.

Over Pruning: No more than about 15% to 20% of a mature tree’s foliage should ever be trimmed off at one time. In fact, 5%-10% is usually adequate. When you remove too much of the canopy, you’ll leave the tree unable to produce enough food, transfer nutrients and structurally support itself.

A chainsaw provides the cleanest cut when you’re dealing with limbs thicker than 3 inches. If your pruning job requires a chainsaw, it’s recommended that you contact a certified arborist. A pole pruner allows you to cut branches that are beyond your reach. Most pole pruners cut limbs up to 2 inches in diameter.