You’ll need to have an industry recognised level 3 qualification for example a level 3 diploma in electrotechnical services. Most people get into this career via an apprenticeship. It normally takes two to four years to become fully qualified. GCSEs grade D or above, including Maths and English, would be an advantage.

In short, electrical installations must be safe! Part P of the Building Regulations applies to fixed electrical installations in dwellings (including gardens and shared amenities in blocks of flats, and any building that shares its electricity supply with a dwelling).

Part P states that anyone carrying out electrical installation work in a home must make sure that the work is designed and installed to protect people from fire and electric shocks. Part P applies to any changes made to existing installations, including any parts that have been rewired.

Very common examples of notifiable work are; rewiring a property, providing electricity to a garage or outhouse, the replacement of the main fuse box in a house or any electrical work in a kitchen, shower room or bathroom.

However, you are still allowed to carry out some work yourself without notifying Building Control. Minor repairs and maintenance are permitted, as well as ‘like for like’ replacements, such as changing existing sockets, switches and ceiling pendants or even replacing damaged cables.

Replacing your old plug sockets with new ones is a quick and easy way to modernise your house and add new functions like USB sockets. Alternatively, you may need to replace a damaged or scorched socket. This guide is perfect for homeowners carrying out a renovation, or if you’re just showing your home a bit of love.

On average it costs about £100 to install a new socket.

You should unscrew the mounting screw that holds the socket to the wall. After successfully doing so, pull the socket off the wall then loosen the terminal screws on the sides of the outlet with wires attached. Finally, ensure you separate the socket from the wires.

The master socket normally belongs to the phone line provider and in theory can’t be moved. There is normally a provision to extend from them, in a way that the extensions can be disconnected for testing.

Yes. Connect the bare endds into a connector block. You will need to fit a blank plate, you cannot plaster over the existing cable and leave the live cables in the wall.

The easiest way of connecting into a ring circuit is to run a spur cable from the terminals of an existing socket – but you can’t connect it to any socket. You mustn’t run a spur from a socket that’s already on a spur, or that already supplies a spur.

You need the neutral to make the light work but you can take a spur from the socket underneath the desk for a light, you could place a FCU next to socket underneath desk then run cable to light switch and then on to light fitting .. you cannot run spur to spur with sockets incase of over load of cable but a light is …

Putting a 13A socket on a lighting circuit is not expicilty prohibited. However there are a couple of things to bear in mind. Lighting circuits are normally on a 6A breaker, plugging in a large appliance my trip the breaker. Sockets intended for general use with a current rating must be RCD protected.

Only one fused spur may be taken from any socket on a ring. From that fused spur you can have as many electrical outlets as you like, as they are then protected by the fuse.