Stern : Rear of a boat. Starboard : Right side of a boat.

In context|nautical|lang=en terms the difference between stern and transom. is that stern is (nautical) the rear part or after end of a ship or vessel while transom is (nautical) the flat or nearly flat stern of a boat or ship.

In boat terminology 101, the transom is the part where the sides of the hull join. It’s part of the stern—the rear end of the boat—and includes the vertical area. The area is ideal for mounting an engine since the spot often has reinforced materials to handle heavy weight and manage the torque.

Bad rot will lead to totally deteriorated wood and a lot of flex in the transom when the outdrive unit is under load. If you’re not experiencing that, then your transom overall is probably okay. You can probe with a piece of stiff wire around the screw holes and see if there is any severe softness.

Treat any wood left inside with CPES™. Cut new wood and treat with CPES™ and insert into transom, clamp/epoxy-glue it to the back of the transom, fill in all gaps with either the Fill-It™ epoxy filler or a putty-mix of the L&L Resin™, and then re-glass the inside. It’s real work.

The best prevention for wood rot, is to remove all wood from a boat and use a material that will not rot. Finally, most boat manufacturers are moving this way with wood free transoms and wood free in the remainder of the boat. If a piece of wood is in and near water over a long period of time it will eventually rot.

Repairing a transom is a laborious exercise that can range from $3,000 to $10,000 depending on the vessel size construction and tradesmen used for the task.

Outboard transoms are pretty much standardized at 1.5″. Most use two layers of 3/4″ ply, but a stronger method is three layers of 1/2″. Transoms are typically reinforced with knees, usually a couple at the rail and two or three on the bilge stringers, to transmit torsion loads to the bottom.

Boric acid (borate) is one of the most effective fungicides for use in treating wood rot. It can be applied to wood during construction to prevent future rot, or as a treatment to stop an active decay fungus from growing.

Can Wet Rot Be Treated Yourself? Here at Timberwise we would recommend that you get a professional wet rot expert to deal with wet rot issues. This is because it is not only the wet rot that needs to be treated, but the root cause of the excess moisture needs to found and fixed too.

Fungicides to defeat brown rot include: baking soda, hydrogen peroxide, tea tree oil, boron solutions, ethylene glycol or propylene glycol, vinegar, etc. Since the dry rot fungus requires an acidic environment from pH 0 to 5.5, certain of these fungicides work because they change the pH.

As the moisture seeps from the outside in, the wood becomes weak. Dry rot (also called brown rot) is a fungus that also starts with moisture, but can live and grow inside the wood even after it’s “dried out.”

Use a polyester filler to rebuild rotted or damaged wood. You can mold and shape it to match the original wood profile. It takes paint well and won’t rot.

Apply Bleach on the Affected Spots Dilute chlorine bleach can be applied in the form of liquid or spray. It will kill all the rot fungi and prevent it from growing again. Besides killing the rot, bleach can also remove rot stains on the wood.

A piece of badly rotted trim that is easily pried off, for example, should be replaced, not repaired. However, there are many situations where it is practical to repair rotted wood, although do-it-yourselfers need to use good judgment. Wood can rot in places where it can weaken a structure.

It’s simple to get rid of wood rot using borate, ethylene glycol, or bleach. You can get borate at any DIY store. Boric acid is sufficient such that it kills the fungi alongside its spores and asides that the acid binds to the water, thereby dissolving it.

Unlike many other wood destroying fungi dry rot can readily grow over and through porous masonry provided that there is a nutritional source (wood) from which it can spread; this ability allows the spread of the fungus from one area to another.

Antifreeze, boric powder and boric acid can be effectively used to eradicate and prevent rot in wood.