A paddle blind – also known as spade blind, skillet blind, line blind, pancake blind, or slip blind – is basically the solid half of a spectacle blind. A paddle blind is often made from one solid metal disc and will usually have a thin length of metal attached to one end to be used as a handle.

A spectacle blind or spec blind, abbreviated as SB, is a safety device used to isolate a section of line or piece of equipment when the line or equipment needs to be inspected or removed from service. It is different than a valve in that the blind is a permanent or long term isolation device.

Spade and Spacers are part of a family referred to as Line Blinds. The Spade or Spacer is fitted in the line between two flanges and is bolted in place. The Spacer is used when the line is required open and the Paddle Blind or Spade is installed when the line is required blocked or closed.

Blinds and/or slip plates (“spades”) are usually installed in all lines which leave or enter a column in order to positively eliminate leakage of materials into the column when air is introduced. A checklist (“blind list”) of all the blinds to be installed and removed should be made.

Slip on Flange is essentially a ring that is placed over the pipe end, with the flange face extending from the end of the pipe by enough distance to apply a weld bead on the inside diameter. The OD of slip on flange is also welded on the back side of the flange.

Most commonly used flanges are weld neck flange, slip on flange, blind flange, socket weld flange, threaded flange and lap joint flange (RTJ Flange). This type of connection in a pipe flange allows for ease of disassembly and separation for repair and regular maintenance.

Flat face (FF) flanges are similar to the RF flanges, but they do not have the raised area like the RF flange. Instead, the whole surface is flat. That means that the gasket used with the FF flange has full contact with the whole surface where two flanges are mated.

Sizes 26″ and bigger are covered by B16. 47 series A or series B for weldneck and blind flanges. Series A flange is heavier, thicker and cost more whereas series B flange has more bolt holes and is lighter cheaper than series A. API605 flange and series B flanges are same thing.

The Salamander S flange is a great innovation designed to stop air getting into your pump. It doesn’t have to be installed with just a Salamander pump. It can be used with any of the other major manufacturers.

Can I supply these from one pump? Yes. However, you have to make sure that the pump you fit is powerful enough for when you have both showers running at once and that your hot water cylinder and the cold water tank are big enough to keep up.

An Essex flange is used to add extra connections to a hot water cylinder (for example: a power shower connection). Note: a piece of wire is always supplied with an Essex flange, and it is essential you have it for the installation process.

Tank flanges are flanges most commonly used to connect a pipe to a vessel or tank of some kind. They can also be used to connect two pipes together. Aluminum or forged steel weld on tank flanges each need to be welded on to tanks of their corresponding material.

To prevent air entering the pump, you should have a Surrey flange fitted to the top of the hot water cylinder if the pump has 15mm connections. This will help prevent debris entering the pump and impairing its operation. Once installed, the shower pump and the pipework should be primed.

The best position for the pump is at the base of the hot water cylinder as close as possible to the cylinder. If you are fitting the pump above the hot water cylinder you will need to install a anti gravity loop as per loft pump shower diagram otherwise follow single impeller shower pump installation diagram.

If the flow is equal between the hot and cold, you should be able to install a shower. If – as in most cases with an unvented system – the hot flow is much lower than the cold, then you’ll most likely need a shower pump.

A power shower is one that combines water from your hot and cold water supplies, in the same manner as a mixer shower would. The difference between a mixer and power shower is that a power shower then uses a pump to boost the pressure, which can make a big difference to those with low water pressure.

How to increase water pressure in the shower

1. Clean your shower head.
2. Replace the shower head.
3. Install a shower pump.
4. Installing a pressurised unvented cylinder.
5. Install an electric shower with a cold water accumulator tank.
6. Install a power shower.

Leaky, corroded and clogged pipes can lead to low water pressure in the shower. The showerhead might be so old it needs to be replaced. If you can’t find the cause of low pressure in your shower, it’s time to get your shower system and water pipes checked by a plumber.

Shower low water pressure can be caused by many things ranging from blocked shower heads or accidentally turned shut-off valves to the more serious causes like blocked pipes or a leak somewhere in the line. Low water pressure can also be due to more than one problem.

If you’re getting hot water everywhere but your shower, it could be that your anti-scald device is set at too high a limit. It’s basically a “stopper” that limits how far your shower handle can rotate in the hot water direction.

If the water in the shower never gets hot, the problem may be with the temperature control on the water heater. If you have an electric water heater, one of the elements may have burned out and the water either gets hot for only a short length of time, or it never gets hot at all.

How to Test for a Faulty Mixing Valve in a Shower

1. Step 1 – Isolate the Water Problem in Your Shower. The water problem in your shower could be: low water pressure, dripping faucet, a stiff handle, or either hot or cold water dispensing only.
2. Low Water Pressure.
3. Dripping Faucet.
4. Handle Doesn’t Turn Smoothly.
5. Shower Emits Only Cold or Hot Water.