When you shift your vehicle from “Drive” to “Park,” you activate the parking pawl and stop the movement of your transmission. The abrupt shift from being in motion to being stationary while on the road can severely damage your transmission and its affiliated parts.

It’s perfectly normal for your automatic transmission vehicle to move an inch or two after shifting it to park, such mechanical play is common even for modern cars. But if your vehicle rolls more than a few inches in Park position, it might be a sign that your transmission is faulty.

If the car is still moving when you try to put it in park, then that pawl meeting the spinning gear makes a horrible noise. If the pawl or the teeth of the gear break off, you will have metal junk loose inside the transmission that can get stuck somewhere else and cause a catastrophic transmission failure.

RAY: Well, the act of turning off the engine while the car is still in drive doesn’t hurt anything, other than the chances that you’re going to go with him to the altar. The transmission and the engine don’t care. Luckily, the keys won’t come out of the ignition unless the car is in park.

2 Answers. Cars are slideable even if in park, when standing on level snow/ice. It’s not easy (the pushers have poor traction, too) but it’s a lot easier than when the car’s on dry pavement. Does not even need to be pushed or slid – 4 or 5 men can easily pick up a small car and move it…

No, its basically like holding the clutch pedal down with the emergency brake engaged in a manual car. It’s not good because the rotational inertia of the crank has no load to slow it down. Don’t do it often but if you already did it there’s no permanent damage.

High RPM get much worse nearing max RPM. Max RPM is the limit that the engine can take before severe damage. Running at or near max RPM for extended periods will drastically reduce engine life. Engines are usually more efficient at lower RPM as well.

When you rev your engine, you place additional and unnecessary stress on your car and its engine. This is imperative when it’s cold outside—revving your engine before it has had time to warm up is especially damaging, as the engine’s oil hasn’t had sufficient time to circulate and properly lubricate your car.

Most drivers may not want to rev the engine so hard because they think it will damage it. After all, when redlined, an engine can sound like it’s about to blow. However, there’s no need to worry. Therefore, revving the engine to its maximum speed several times a week is not a problem.

Its an attention getting device, revving the engine is used to encourage you to look over to see what’s happening, doing this will allow the driver to see your face, thus identifying you, unless the same driver repeatedly does this to you it should be accepted as no more than that.

Modern drivetrains are programmed to keep engine revolutions low in the name of efficiency, and while it’s indisputable that high RPMs burn fuel faster and increase strain on components, it’s actually good for the engine to run through its RPM range on occasion.

It’s good for your car to run it through its entire powerband once in a while. You don’t need to actually hit the redline, but wind the engine out. Regular cars, a couple times a month won’t hurt it one bit. Some cars are perfectly happy doing it all day long, but it does cause more wear on the components doing that.

Today a million miles, or even 500,000 miles, is still extremely unusual for a vehicle. Consumer Reports, through its annual questionnaire, has found that thousands of people have gone over 200,000 miles in their original vehicles without catastrophic failures or major repairs.

Short answer: yes. Engines wear according to how they’re driven. If you don’t do the occasional spirited run, then your engine will wear tight and slow as opposed to loose and fast.

Consistently redlining your car can cause serious damage to not only your tires, but also your engine. For those with manual-shift modes or manual transmissions, it can be quite easy to redline (whether on accident or on purpose) and eventually cause your engine to wear down prematurely.

The most common cause of this revving is either a stuck throttle or the mass airflow (MAF) sensor. This fault should be addressed as soon as possible for normal operation as this revving can become dangerous if the vehicle is allowed to accelerate unintentionally.

Bikes have small combustion chambers because of their small capacity, and they have “oversquare” cylinders, i.e. the diameter of the bore is greater than the stroke of the piston. Both of those reduce the piston speed at a given rpm, or to put it another way, at a given piston speed, the engine will rev much higher.

You are causing a lot more wear and tear on the engine by red-lining it, but whether or you are “reving” it in neutral or third makes no difference. Newer cars now have computers that limits the amount of RPMs you can turn, so revving the engine does absolutely nothing. …

Answer is….its ok to rev you engine in neutral/park. Just not when its cold and dont hold it on rev limiter! Try not to, because free revving can damage the engine.

Every time that you rev your car’s engine, it’s going to pull a whole bunch of air and fuel into it since it’s going to act as if you’re driving it. This is going to lead to it burning through more gas than it would under normal circumstances.

Running an engine some 3000 RPM below its redline should be absolutely find for extended periods of time. So long as your oil and coolant is in good condition, timing belt in good order etc, then most engines will handle this sort of driving for hours per day.