Natural sources of light include our sun and other stars, where the source of energy is nuclear energy (recall that the moon does not produce light but merely reflects sunlight), lightning, where the source is electrical, and fire, where the energy source is chemical.

Solid light, often referred to in media as “hard light” or “hard-light”, is a hypothetical material, made of light in a solidified state. It has been theorized that this could exist, and experiments claim to have created solid photonic matter or molecules by inducing strong interaction between photons.

There are five main artificial light producers: gas lamps, incandescent lights, fluorescent lights (including CFLs), LED lights, and lasers. Gas lamps work by burning a gas to produce light. Incandescent lights work by putting electricity through filaments, which get hot and light up.

Unfortunately, however, the current created by moving a magnet over a single wire doesn’t provide enough energy quickly enough to actu- ally light the bulb. To light a bulb, or to power anything else, you need to find a way to generate more power, which is the amount of energy produced in a certain time.

If the switch is OFF, this light will still work. Just flip the switch ON. It can last up to three hours of straight uninterrupted use – so when the power unexpectedly goes out, you’re not fumbling around in the dark looking for a light source. Both the ON and OFF will still work without any power.

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Say you need a bright yard light way out in your yard or a remote outlet to power a pond pump or electric tools. By far the best way to get electrical power right where you need it is to run underground ‘line’ voltage (120-volt household current).

Installing outdoor power outlets isn’t as difficult as it sounds. The quickest way to extend power outdoors is to install a receptacle back-to-back with one inside the house. You also can drill through the wall from a basement or crawlspace and attach a receptacle on the side of a house using an extension ring.

Outside sockets should be RCD protected anyway and providing you use IP rated light fittings you can use them and plug into the socket. The answer to your question is NO you dont need an RCD to protect your lights. If it is Class 1 equipment (exposed metal parts) then they must be earthed.

You can run electrical wire outside to nearly any location. Although some types of electrical cable do not have to be enclosed in conduit for outside installation, enclosing any exposed cable is a good idea.

In 90% of cases, the outdoor lighting is a complete afterthought to the building. Ideally, the supply to the garden lighting installation should be an independent circuit with an independent RCD/RCBO so that, if tripping issues do occur, they don’t affect the rest of the installation.

The Light end’s wire needs to connect with white wiring of light. Twist them together and put them inside a wire nut for attaching. For the other wire, you want to take light’s black wire and twist them together. Use a wire nut here as well.

Once outdoors, you should supply your lights via 1.5mm² three core steel-wire-armoured cable (SWA). Make sure that you only fit weatherproof lights that are suitable for outdoor use and that your circuit is RCD-protected.

It’s OK to wire a 15-amp light circuit with a 14-gauge wire to save a bit of money and make the wiring job a bit easier. You must also use a 12-gauge wire when connecting an outlet rated for 20 amps, as many GFCI outlets are, even if the appliances you plug in are rated for only 15 amps.