The International Residential Code, on which most local building codes are based, requires that floors in non-sleeping rooms must support a minimum live load of 40 pounds per square foot, and floors in sleeping rooms must be able to handle a live load of 30 pounds per square foot.

Most likely, you’ll just have a single 1 piece bottom panel, so these cross bracing along the bottom is not necessary. any 48″ long or less and 30″ wide or less and 20″ or less tall can be done using just 1/2″ glass, but at the bigger end of those dimensions (like my tank was) you’ll want bottom eurobrace.

Euro bracing is called “kick plates” Their purpose at the bottom is to secure the plates to the bottom with additional additional to ensure that the glass dose not “slide” of the bottom and leak or break. They give the bottom extra support as well.

That little overhang will not pose a problem. The pressure on a tank is down and out from the water. If the front, sides and back sit on the bottom panel you are good to go.

Yes, it can. Put it over as many joists as possible, and you’ll be fine. If it’s in the basement, as in over carpeted concrete, you could place just about any sized tank you want.

Dutch Aquarium Systems introduces a novel tank brace using steel rods. Since the stone age, aquariums have been built with bracing to keep them from leaking and/or exploding their water and livestock all over the place.

Standard glass bracing is characterized by a narrow glass strip that runs around the top entire top perimeter of the tank, as well as a center glass brace the runs front to back. Staggered Bracing This bracing style is beneficial when trying to optimize light penetration from your lighting.

The metal cross-bracing rods are fastened directly to the aquarium glass using special hardware and the hole in which they are attached is sealed with an included gasket.

We don’t have to tell you how much of a bane the light-blocking, salt creep-collecting, aquascaping-hurdles those conventional glass aquarium braces are.