Building touring wheels While 36 holes are generally recommended, lighter and unladen riders may get away with 32 (the weight saving is minimal but they’re easier to source) and tandem riders may prefer up to 48 spokes and a four-cross pattern to cope with the extra weight and power.

The hole counts must match. You need to order a 32-hole rim or a 36-hole hub. I recommend the latter. 36-spoke wheels are noticeably stronger than 32-hole ones.

You can tour just fine with 32 spokes.

More spokes typically mean a stronger wheel. However, spokes a lot better these days compared to the galvanized steel spokes of yesteryear so 32 spokes is more than enough unless you’re a Clydesdale or ride a tandem or loaded touring bike, where 36 spokes might not be enough.

Lugs Holes/Nuts Lug holes are the holes that the center cap covers, in which lug nuts go into to hold the wheel together. Wheels can have 4, 5, 6, or 8 lug holes. The term ‘Bolt pattern’ is the measurement from one bolt Is the opposite one across.

First, spokes don’t push outward, holding the rim at bay, like it might seem. Rather, the rim is evenly pulled inward by the spokes, which are laced through the hub, the center part of the wheel that rotates around the axle. This uniformly applied tension is what supports your weight on the wheels.

At first glance, people might not initially understand why fat bike rims can sometimes have holes in them. It is done for a very practical purpose, and that is to reduce the weight of the wheels in the most efficient way possible. Since fat bike tires are so big and bulky, they tend to be relatively heavy.

The Hub. The hub is the center part of the wheel that the rim attaches to.

Hole Count – Your hubs and rims should match each other’s hole count….Here’s how to measure these distances:

1. Figure out the distance between the lock nuts (where the hub sits in the dropouts) – 100 or 110 mm is typical for the front.
2. Take that number and divide by 2.
3. Then measure from the flange to the lock nut.