In short there is no real difference between Acrylic and Lucite, Lucite is just the best version of acrylic on the market. While strength is a key factor in using Lucite, the material is also incredibly flexible, weighs less than glass, and is even clearer than glass.

Lucite (acrylic) should dissolve in acetone, but you would need to be sure that whatever is inside will not dissolve as well. Thermal shock might work – soak in in liquid nitrogen and then drop in in cold water.

1. Acetone will not dissolve away all of that Lucite. However, step one is to soak it in Acetone overnight.
2. The next morning take it out of the acetone and set it out to dry. It may look like a soft jelly blob.
3. Take it somewhere FAR away from the acetone or acetone fumes, and hit it with a heat gun on high.

Place your object onto the top of the Lucite, since it is not completely hardened you will to able to partially press your object into the base layer of plastic. Take care not to damage your object.

Cover with something to stop dust blowing in. Wait until the surface becomes tacky (approx 40 min) before placing the insect on top. This will stop the insect sinking or moving. Don’t wait too long though or you will see a layer / line in your finished paperweight.

1. Tech.
2. Cured Epoxy.
3. A major advantage of using an epoxy is that it provides a very strong, permanent bond in adhesive applications.
4. sive.
5. dissolve the cured epoxy.
6. be effective: toluene, NMP (n-methly- pyrollidone) and MEK (methyl-ethyl- ketone).

Method 1:

1. Soak the metal with the epoxy glue on it in a container of rubbing alcohol (isopropyl) or an acetone-based nail polish remover.
2. Unwrap the item and scrape off the loosened epoxy with a scraper.
3. If you notice a bit of a haze is left after cleaning, wipe it away with paint thinner and a rag.

When applied to remove epoxy, vinegar slightly dissolves it then penetrates the protective layers of skin, carrying epoxy into your subdermal tissues. It’s much safer to use a waterless skin cleanser or other detergent-based products with a strong emulsifying action.

Be careful to choose the right solvent for the job. Paint thinners and alcohol can damage that beautiful wood finish — so, instead, use acetone as the solvent. Gently rub the areas where epoxy needs to be removed with a clean, soft cloth dampened with an epoxy solvent, such as acetone.

Soak a paper towel or cloth with vinegar and gently rub it on the affected area until the epoxy softens enough to peel off.

Once the resin has cured and dried, the only way to break it down is to let it soak in acetone or rubbing alcohol. 👉 TIP: You can also apply the rubbing alcohol using a spray bottle – easy! Now, with gloves on, wipe the mixing container clean. Spray again, as necessary, until you feel all the resin has been removed.

50 Graduated Paper Cups Perfect for mixing small batches resin, paint, stain, epoxy from 1 to 3 ounces. Cups are are wax coated. They are sturdy and smooth on the inside to help with complete mixing. They are flexible enough to make pouring easy.

You look over and see your epoxy resin smoking or maybe your mixing cup melted. When you mix Part A (resin) and Part B (hardener) together new chemical bonds begin to form causing an epoxy exothermic reaction. Energy is released in the form of heat as the mixture catalyzes.