You can absolutely use DOT4 in place of DOT3 brake fluid. The DOT4 will not harm your DOT3 system in any way. Do not use DOT5 fluid (silicone based fluid), as it is completely different. You can possibly use DOT5. 1, which is compatible with DOT3/4.

Brake fluid is prone to absorbing water, which is one of the reasons you replace it. You CANNOT reuse fluid, and you CANNOT mix old with new.

All DOT 3, 4 and 5.1 brake fluids are compatible with each other and with all systems. All polyethylene glycol-based fluids will not harm healthy rubber parts. Also, the additive packages will not damage or distort any rubber parts.

Yes, DOT 3 brake fluid is compatible with DOT 4 brake fluid. However, DOT 4 offers a higher boiling point. It’s not compatible with the other brake fluids and is used mostly in classic cars that remain in storage for long periods and need a brake fluid that doesn’t absorb water.

The primary differences between the two include the following: DOT 3 brake fluid will absorb less water than DOT 4 from the air over time, meaning you’ll need to have your fluid changed less frequently. DOT 4 brake fluid has higher dry and wet boiling points, making it safer for higher temperatures.

Step 2: Find the clutch fluid reservoir. If you aren’t sure what reservoir you’re looking at, check your vehicle manual. Tip: Use your vehicle manual to determine what type of brake fluid you should use to fill the clutch fluid reservoir: Dot 3, Dot 4, or hydraulic clutch fluid are the most common.

“Topping off the clutch fluid with our product will stop leaks and help prevent major damage.” Common signs of a clutch fluid leak are difficulty shifting or grinding noises while shifting, clutch pedal staying close to the floor, and dirty or low clutch fluid.

“Clutch fluid actually doesn’t exist. Clutch fluid is really just brake fluid that is kept in the clutch master cylinder. The pressure of the fluid is then used to engage the clutch, which allows you to change gears.

brake fluid

Symptoms of a Bad or Failing Clutch Master Cylinder

• Low or dirty clutch fluid. One of the first symptoms commonly associated with a potential problem with the clutch master cylinder is low or dirty fluid in the reservoir.
• Hard to shift. Another symptom commonly associated with a bad or failing clutch master cylinder is difficulty shifting.
• Abnormal clutch pedal behavior.

Clutch Master Cylinder Replacement Cost – RepairPal Estimate. The average cost for clutch master cylinder replacement is between $292 and $327. Labor costs are estimated between $134 and $169 while parts are priced at $158.

Yes master cylinders can fail without leakage, the clutch master cylinder has a piston inside and there are separate channels for hi-pressure line and return(low pressure) line and their location in the cylinder differs for manufacturers.

Check the slave cylinder and see if its moving. There could be a leak on the slave cylinder causing the slave cylinder not to operate. Also, check the pin to the clutch pedal and make sure that it is hooked up to the clutch master cylinder. If there is no leak, then there may be air in the clutch hydraulic system.

roughly 8 hours

Signs that your clutch master cylinder needs to be replaced include:

1. You are unable to change gears at all.
2. Brake fluid is leaking around the clutch pedal.
3. The clutch pedal goes all the way to the floor.
4. There is a loud noise when you press the clutch pedal down.
5. You constantly have low braking fluid.

Signs of a Bad Clutch Master Cylinder

1. Stuck Pedal. When a master clutch cylinder goes bad, the clutch pedal will fall to the floor when pressed and will not rise again.
2. Hard Shifting. When a master clutch cylinder goes bad but does not completely fail, it will result in very hard shifting while driving.
3. Low Fluid.
4. Reservoir Backup.

50,000 and 100,000 miles

Can you drive with a bad clutch master cylinder? Yes, usually you have at least a little while between the time you first notice the problem and the time it reaches the point you can’t keep fluid in it at all and the clutch pedal just doesn’t function. This could be a few hours, a few days, or a lot longer.

Pump the clutch pedal – If you have a friend with you, have them get in the driver’s seat and pump the clutch pedal 10 to 15 times to build pressure. Then have them press and hold the clutch pedal completely down. Test the bleeder – While the clutch pedal is held to the floor, use your line wrench and open the bleeder.

Broken Clutch Cable: The most common reason to have a clutch pedal that goes all the way to the floor is a broken clutch cable. This is extremely common, particularly on older cars. Low Fluid: If you have a hydraulic clutch, there are a couple of other things it could be. One is low fluid in the master/slave cylinder.

As low fluid affects power transmission operation, you’ll notice problems primarily in how the vehicle shifts between gears. You may also notice sluggish or unresponsive gear shifting, known as gear slippage, as the clutch fails to engage or disengage due to a lack of necessary hydraulic pressure.

There’s actually no such thing as clutch fluid as you’ll find that most cars have DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid in the clutch reservoir. To simply top it off, you’ll need to locate the clutch master cylinder, which looks like a smaller version of a brake master cylinder, unscrew the cap and top it off.

A higher Boiling Point than DOT 3 and Dot 4, approx 260°C. Not aggressive to paintwork. Not hygroscopic. Significantly longer service life (up to 3 times that of conventional fluids)